I use this base for each strain and in any condition, and always end up with better than average results. This basic guide I’m giving you is just that. . . Basic, but will give you full-producing, healthy plants.
1 part coco-fiber
Coco fiber, also known as coir fiber, is the fibrous material found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut.
(If you get dehydrated coco-fiber, plan to spend a day soaking it to leach any unwanted starches or salts.)
1 part perlite
Perlite is a lightweight material prepared from volcanic lava.
½ part vermiculite
Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined and processed into a puffy, lightweight granule mixed with soil to improve aeration and drainage.
Use about 1/8 cup of DL per 2 gallon bucket or pot for the medium soil mixture above. It’s very easy to over-do this.
Add the Domoletic Lime at the beginning of the plant’s growth after it’s transplanted from it’s “baby” phase.
Your plants will show you a lot of love if you show it some of what it loves, and that’s Bat Guano!
Bat Guano is an excellent source of phosphorus, which plays a huge role in capturing and converting the sun’s energy into useful plant compounds.
I would add this after your plant passes through the “baby” phase into a vegetative state
Add a little in the form of liquid tea to get the plant used to the nutrient. Use a a cup of Bat Guano in coffee filter stapled shut, and insert it into an empty one gallon water container and let it sit in the sun for an hour or so. Let it cool a bit, but it’s ready to use right away. It does NOT stay well and for very long, so do not try and reuse this the next day.
TIPS O’ THE TRADE
If you’re using this guide as a sole basis for growing your cannabis, I encourage you to do your research on strain-specific nutrients, temperatures, and relative humidity when planning for your future crops. The worm castings are where your nutrients are coming from, and will do the trick in and by themselves. I do recommend amending this medium.
Plants demand 3 main nutrients to survive and produce anything at all. Those three nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorous and potaassium! Also known as, N-P-K in the gardening community, it’s something you’ll hear a lot as in your growing adventure.
Adding any nutrients should be done with introductory doses, with a plan of ramping up dosages until the plants reaches maturity. As a grower, we do this to maximize the potential flower size and potency of each plant. If you don’t have the time to be a full-time grower, I suggest an all-purpose tomato food to serve as a time-release fertilizer i At the very minimum I would add some bat guano in the mix as well. Not a whole bag of each or anything near the sort. I would add at most 1 cup of each to the above grow medium, and that would be as minimal as I would suggest getting.
Keep in mind, the more nutrients you add, generally speaking, the higher the PH (acidity/alkalinity) level. The PH that you’ll want to attain as a great grower depends on which strain of cannabis you are growing. Some strains prefer a lower ph, and some a little higher, but with a range of 6.0-7.0 you can be assured that you’ll be in the range for any strain. Adding a bit of Domoletic Lime to this mix because it will help keep the soil’s PH level at a constant 6.5-7.0
Plants will tell you if the are lacking nutrients or are getting too many nutrients, but you need to listen to them. Needs will vary on a day-to-day basis, so daily attention is important.
The most common problem that you’ll run into is bugs and mold. Spider mites are particularly prevalent in the southeast, and mold will also kill a harvest quicker than imaginable. By paying close attention to your plants you’ll be able to stop most problems. A penny of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
We hope to give more detailed help in further articles by discussing and offering solutions to problems that you might encounter as grower. Let us know if you have any questions!